Frequently Asked Questions
What types of wood are your cutting boards made from?
All our cutting boards are made from select hardwoods. Cutting boards made with softwoods should be avoided.
My products are made using an assortment of hardwoods. I choose the woods based on their hardness, durability, work ability, natural beauty and long proven safety when it comes to food preparation. My focus is on highlighting the natural beauty of the grain patterns and color variants to produce the best quality products. Therefore, my choice of hardwoods are mesquite, pecan, hickory, white hard maple, black walnut and cherry. I believe that each of these hardwoods can be used as stand-alone wood products or mixed to afford a blend of colors which can highlight and accent each respective wood variety.
What is the difference between hardwood and softwood?
Hardwood comes from flowering trees or trees that produce nuts or whitefruit such as oak maple, walnut, cherry, teak, and mesquite.
Softwood comes from conifers or cone bearing trees such as pine or spruce.
Hardwoods are slower growing and therefore tend to have a higher density than softwoods. This means the wood tends to be stronger and more durable.
What are the best hardwoods for cutting boards, butcher blocks or utensils?
The best woods for food preparation are hardwoods with a high density, tight grain or closed grain and small pores.
Higher density woods are stronger, more durable, more resilient and less prone to scratching or scoring from knife blades, general wear and tear and will tend to have a longer life span.
Woods with a tight grain pattern and smaller pores are less prone to allowing the growth of harmful bacteria, water logging or warping/twisting.
Be cautious of any food preparation items made with exotic hardwoods, such as paduk, purple heart or yellow heart, due to possible toxicity.
What are the most common hardwoods used?
Commonly used hardwoods are white hard maple, black walnut, cherry, bamboo and hickory.
What other hardwoods can be used?
Some less common hardwoods include mesquite, pecan, beech, teak and sapele.
What are the differences between the woods you use?
Cherry has a Janka hardness of 950. Cherry has a unique quality in that it will darken over time with exposure to light. Cherry has a variety of grain patterns ranging from straight to curly. Cherry has a fine even texture.
Black walnut has a Janka hardness of 1,010. Black walnut can have a variety of grain patterns ranging from a straight pattern to curl, crotch (v-shaped), burl or an irregular pattern. Black walnut has a tight grain with a fine to medium texture. Black walnut can be prone to tear out during finishing.
White hard maple has a Janka hardness of 1,450. Maple can have a variety of grain patterns ranging from a simple straight pattern to bird’s eye, curly or quilted textures or a mix of each. Maple has a tight grain pattery with a fine even texture and small pores.
Pecan has a Janka hardness of 1,820. Pecan tends to have a straight grain pattern; however, it can also be wavy. Pecan has a medium texture. Pecan can be prone to tear out during finishing.
Hickory has a Janka hardness ranging from 1,500 to 2,140 depending on the subspecies. Hickory is strikingly similar to Pecan.
Mesquite has a Janka hardness of 2,340. Mesquite is similar to Cherry in that it tends to darken with age. Mesquite tends to have a wavy grain pattern, but it can also have a straight or curly pattern as well. Mesquite is very dense with a smooth medium texture. Mesquite is under rated and under utilized due to the costs of the lumber. By far, Mesquite is my favorite wood to work with due to the variety of colors in each piece of lumber, its smooth texture and its aromatic odor (smells great when sawing in the shop), hence the name Sweet Mesquite Creations.
*Note:
Pecan and Hickory come from the same species of tree; however, they differ in their subspecies. Although the differences are subtle they are different nonetheless. Hickory is slightly denser and heavier than Pecan and Hickory tends to have a more uniform color than Pecan. Pecan and Hickory are commonly sold together and to most they are regarded as the same. Some unscrupulous manufacturers may market or advertise one as the other. I find this is not only unprofessional and unethical but it is unfair to the customer. As such, my products are clearly labeled for the wood variety they contain.
What are some common terms found with wood products used in food preparation?
Some common terms used are Janka hardness or Janka scale, toxicity and porosity.
What is Janka hardness?
Janka hardness is scientific scale which refers to the measurement of a wood’s density or strength.
Generally speaking, the higher the density of the wood the stronger or more durable the wood will be.
What is porosity?
Porosity is simply the porousness of the wood. Woods with a tighter closed grain are less likely allow the harmful buildup and growth of molds and bacteria. These woods also do not absorb as much water which will reduce the likeliness of potential warping or twisting.
What is toxicity?
The toxicity of wood is of great concern in food preparation as some woods can leach naturally occurring oils, resins and saps into the food. These oils and resins can lead to mild reactions such as skin irritations to more severe reactions such as poisoning and allergic reactions.
Try to avoid any wood products made with rare or exotic hardwoods. While they may be beautiful products they could be harmful.
Recently, there has been a surge in wood products claiming to be “reclaimed lumber.” These woods could be particularly harmful based on the original use of the wood. Some woods could have been treated with toxic chemicals, which prevented rot or bug infestations, or they could have been exposed to other dangerous chemicals. While these woods are sought after for their rustic and worn characteristics they should be avoided for any products used in food preparation. Antiquing a piece of lumber is an easy process; however, such wood should never be advertised as “reclaimed” as this is obviously false. It is also unethical and unprofessional as well.
What is the difference between face grain, end grain and edge grain?
Cutting boards can utilize the three different grains found in every piece of wood which are the face grain, edge grain and end grain.
Face grain is the grain pattern that runs along the face (top and bottom) length of the lumber. Face grain boards tends to the be most attractive, however, it tends to show the most cuts, scratches and nicks over time. Face grain boards can be prone to warping and cracking if they are made too thin and are not well maintained. Face grain boards tend to dull knives faster.
Edge grain is the grain pattern that runs along the narrow edges of the lumber. Edge grain does not have the distinctness of the face grain but that doesn’t mean it is not attractive. Edge grain boards show less of the grain, but they are a little stronger than face grain boards and tend to show less wear and tear over time. Edge grain boards are less prone to warping and cracking.
End grain is the grain pattern at the ends of each piece of lumber. While end grain boards don’t show as much grain patters as face grain or edge grain boards they tend to be the most durable. End grain boards can have unique and distinctive patterns; however, they also tend to come with a higher price tag. End grain boards are typically found in butcher blocks. End grain boards tend to keep the knife sharper longer than face grain or end grain boards.
Which one is the “best?”
There is no clear-cut answer for which one is the best. It all depends on what you want in your cutting board. It’s a balance between appearance vs. durability and manner of use vs. frequency of use. All cutting boards no matter the style will last generations with the right amount of care.
What is “spalted” wood?
Spalting is a process where a log is left on the ground over time to allow some light rotting/decay by white rot fungus. The log is rolled periodically to allow for a more uniform spalt throughout the log. The dark lines in the lumber the prize for woodworkers; however, the fungus can affect different parts of the wood differently (such as sap wood vs. heart wood). This process is used to add character and an aesthetic value to the lumber.
Is spalted wood safe?
In short, yes. Once the log has achieved the desired time on the ground the spalting process is stopped either by kiln drying the lumber (once the log has been cut) or by a chemical process. At Sweet Mesquite Creations we will only use lumber which has been kiln dried and not treated with any chemicals. The high temperatures and the length of time involved in the kiln drying process allow for the fungus to be neutralized along with any insects which may have penetrated the wood. Spalted lumber can have some “soft” areas which takes away from the hardness. We take great care in eliminating any “soft” areas in the final product. Spalted wood should only be used for products with incidental food contact (cutting boards) not wooden utensils. Just remember we’re not eating the wood. But if you are overly concerned about spalted wood I would recommend finding another product or using that product as a show or decorative piece.
How are your cutting boards made?
Sweet Mesquite cutting boards start with “rough” lumber which I mill in my shop to the desired thickness per piece. I strive for an overall thickness between 1 1/2” to 1 3/4” for each board. I add a round over edge and juice groove to the top of the board (large size) and a 45 degree champher edge to the bottom of the board. I find that the bottom chamfer allows the board to be picked up more readily without adding notches for handles which provides for a more uniform and classic finish.
Once each board has been shaped they go through a four step wet sanding technique that results in an ultra smooth finish.
I finish each board with several coats of Howard mineral oil followed by a final coat of Howard butcher block conditioner. Most boards will absorb oil to a depth of approximately 1/8” dependent on the variety of wood. The butcher block conditioner contains both beeswax and carnauba wax which help seal the pores of the wood and helps the boards retain the oil longer.
The final step is adding the clear rubber feet to the bottom of each board. I prefer the thicker larger feet for several reasons. First, I find they prevent the boards from slipping on counter tops. Second, they also raise the board to more comfortable height while in use. Third, they allow you to reach under the board more easily. And fourth, they allow the boards to be used as serving platters if desired.
The boards which contain a variety of woods are glued together using Titebond III Ultimate wood glue. Titebond III is waterproof and is FDA approved for food safety.
What makes your boards different?
The difference is the handcrafting and attention to detail. Most boards you may find on the market today are low quality mass machine produced cutting boards. They usually only contain one variety of wood with little to no design features. The boards are typically about 3/4” to 1” thick a may even be warped in the packaging. Sweet Mesquite boards are thicker, heavier and contain a variety of woods for a unique design quality. Plus, I don’t charge extra for the juice grooves and other features unlike other online marketers.
How do I care for my cutting board?
The best way to extend the life and appearance of your cutting board is with routine care. Wash the board with light soap and water after each use. Immediately towel dry the board to remove excess water and let stand on the counter to air dry. Do not let the board drip dry. Add a light coat of mineral oil to the board every few months. Let the oil soak in for about 20-30 minutes then wipe off any excess oil with a clean dry cloth. Periodic light sanding may be required to remove minor scratches or nicks.
What type or brand of mineral oil should I use?
Any food grade mineral oil will work just fine. These can be found at most grocery stores or box stores such as Lowe’s or Home Depot. I use Howard mineral oil and butcher block conditioner which are food grade and food safe.
Why are 3D carves so expensive?
3D carves are very detailed and involve days and/or weeks to design. 3D carves are works of art. The carves take many hours of machine time to create. Some carves, depending on the amount of small detail, require multiple tool (bit) changes to bring out the minute detail. Most carves take between 8-10 hours; however, some can be as little as 1.5 hours and some can take up to 20 hours! That is a lot of personnel hours as well as machine time. So, we have to take into account the wear and tear on the machine, tools (bits), maintenance, etc.